27 MAY 14: Page 10-13 steps 1-7: 2.5 hours

Made the F-1011D horizontal stabilizer attachment bar support angle and the F-1012D up elevator stop:

Match-drilled the four holes of the aft deck into the F-1010B spacer and the F-1010A horizontal attachment angle.  Match-drilled all the side holes of the F-1014 aft deck into the F-1032 longerons:

Match-drilled the holes of the support angle into the F-1014 aft deck, the stop/doubler, and the F-1032 longerons:

Match-drilled the holes of the elevator stop into the aft deck and F-1032 longerons:

28 MAY 14: Page 10-14 steps 1-5, page 10-15 steps 1-2: 2.75 hours

Removed the F-1074/75 top skins and the F-1047 stiffeners.  Drilled the F-636 shoulder harness anchors.  Drilled the static source holes in both the F-1073L/R skins.  Final drilled the four attachment holes and nut plate attachment rivet holes in the F-1073 side skins for the cover plates.  Disassembled the tailcone. No pics.

20 MAY 14: Page 10-11 steps 1-2: 1.25 hours

Clamped the longerons to the F-1014 aft deck and side skins.  Match-drilled all common holes of the F-1073 side skin into the F-1032 longerons – no pics.

21 MAY 14: Page 10-11 steps 2-5: 3.75 hours

Match-drilled all common holes of the F-1073 side skin into the F-1032 longerons.  Match-drilled the holes of the F-1073L/R side skins into the flanges of the F-1012B bulkhead and all the remaining skin to bulkhead and frame holes on each side of the tailcone.  Final-drilled all the 3/32” holes common to the F-1012A/B bulkhead webs and the top of the bulkhead webs common the the F-1014 aft deck.  Final-drilled the skin to frame/bulkhead holes on the bottom of the tailcone.  Final-drilled the holes along the edge of the F-1073 side skins and the F-1078/1079 bottom skins:

22 MAY 14: Page 10-12 steps 1-5: 1 hour

Clecoed the F-1009 frame to the forward end of the F-1014 aft deck:

 Final-drilled the holes common to the F-1014 aft deck and F-1009 bulkhead.  Fluted the frames and bulkheads.  Clecoed the F-1075 aft top skin to the F-1007, F-1008, and F-1009 frames and the F-1073 side skins:

23 MAY 14: Page 10-12 steps 6-9: 3.5 hours

Match-drilled the F-1047A and F-1047B stiffeners to the F-1075 aft top skin:

Clecoed the F-1074 forward top skin to the F-1006 bulkhead, F-1007 frame, F-1075 aft top skin, the F-1073 side skins, and the F-1032 longerons.  Match-drilled the holes of the F-1074 forward top skin into the F-1047 stiffeners.  Final drilled the rest of the holes associated with the F-1074 and F-1075 top skins:

18 MAY 14: Page 10-9 steps 3-5, page 10-10 steps 1-6: 2 hours

Final drilled the 3/32” nutplate attachment rivet holes in both the F-1037B&C bellcrank rib angles,  countersunk the holes.  Final-drilled holes common to the F-1037 bellcrank angles and F-1029 bellcrank ribs and the four holes of the F-1028 baggage bulkhead channel.  Made the F-1010B spacer.  Inserted the F-1032L/R longerons into the notches of the frames and bulkheads.  Although crude, Van’s method for bending the longerons worked quite well:

Centered the F-1010B spacer on the F-1010A horizontal stabilizer attachment angle:

Clecoed the F-1014 aft deck and F-1010B doubler to the F-1011 bulkhead and the F-1012A&B bulkheads:

12 MAY 14: Page 10-5 step 4, page 10-6 steps 1-3, page 9-14 step 11: 5.75 hours

Drew the rivet hole centerline along all the stiffeners. Cut the two 3/4x3/4 angles to form the longerons.  Bent the F-1032-R/L longerons in the table vice and used the F-1073 skins as a guide for the bend.  Used the rivet holes to gauge the bend – worked well:

Spent the rest of the work session messing with my practice kit trailing edge in prep to rivet the elevator trailing edges.  I bought a few extra flat sets with the intent of squeezing the elevator trailing edges vs. the back rivet/flat set that I used on the rudder.  I messed with it for quite a while and am still not sold on using the squeezer – probably just use the traditional method.

13 MAY 14: Page 10-7 steps 1-2: 1.5 hours

Clecoed the F-1007 and F-1008 frames and the F-1010 bulkhead to the F-1078 forward bottom skin.  Slid the two F-1074F stiffeners through the notches in the frames.  Centered the rivet hole centerline of both stiffeners and match-drilled both stiffeners to the F-1078 forward bottom skin:

14 MAY 14: Page 10-7 steps 3-6: 1.5 hours

Slid the F-1047G stiffener through the notches in the frames and match-drilled to the F-1078 skin.  Clecoed and match-drilled the F-1029L/R bellcrank ribs to the F-1078 skin:

  Positioned the F-1047C/D/E stiffeners in the frame and bulkhead notches. Clecoed the F-1073-R side skin to the frames, bulkheads, and F-1078 skin.

15 MAY 14: Page 10-7 step 7: 1.75 hours

Match-drilled the F-1047C/D/E stiffeners and F-1078 forward bottom skin:

Holes, holes, and more holes:

17 MAY 14: Page 10-8 steps 1-7, page 10-8 steps 1-2: 4.75 hours

Clecoed the F-1011 and F-1012A/B bulkheads to the side skin.  Had a heck of a time getting the F-1011 to fit – had the bulkhead in and out probably 15 times!!!  Flipped the tailcone and match-drilled the F-1047C/D/E stiffeners to the F-1073-L side skin:

Clecoed the F-1055R/L rudder stop skin stiffeners to the F-1073R/L side skins.  Made the F-1056 rudder stop brace and placed it against the F-1012A bulkhead web.  Match-drilled the four holes of the bulkhead into the brace:

Clecoed the F-1006 bulkhead to the F-1073L/R, F-1078, and F-1029L/R bellcrank ribs.  Final-drilled the holes common to the bulkhead and bellcrank ribs.  Clecoed the F-1028 baggage bulkhead channel to the F-1029R bellcrank rib and to the F-1006 bulkhead. Final-drilled the top holes common to the bulkhead:

10 MAY 14: Page 10-2 steps 2-6, page 10-3 steps 1-5: 5.5 hours

Deburred the F-1012A&B fuselage bulkheads, clecoed together, and matchdrilled the 3/32 holes of the bulkhead and the tie down bar:

Made the F-1011E ruder cable angle, match-drilled the nutplate rivet holes into the F-1011E , machine countersunk the rivet holes in the angle:

Straightened the two F-1011C horizontal stabilizer attachment bars:

Final drilled holes in common to the attachment bars and bulkhead, match-drilled the holes of the bulkhead and the F-1011A bulkhead stiffener, match-drilled the holes of the bulkhead and the F-1011E rudder cable angle:

11 MAY 14: Page 10-4 steps 1-5, page 10-5 steps 1-4: 8 hours

Made the F-1010A horizontal stabilizer attachment angle.  Separated the F-1010C bulkhead doublers into left and right parts.  Deburred the F-1010 bulkhead and cleacoed the F-1010C-L/R bulkhead doublers.  Match-drilled the holes in the bulkhead and the bulkhead doublers into the F-1010A angle.  Final-drilled the remaining holes common between the F-1010 bulkhead and the F-1010C-L/R doublers:

Deburred and final-drilled the F-1008, F-1007, and F1006 frames:

Spent the rest of the session finishing all the F-1047 fuselage stiffeners – 12 in all:

Between all the stiffeners and all the bulkhead parts, it was a boring, but productive day.  Not too many pics, just a bunch of parts:

28-29 APR 14: Rudder TE prep: 4.5 hours

30 APR 14: Page 7-9 steps 2-8: 2.5 hours

Positioned the R-1001-L skin on the R-1001-R skin, rolled back the R-1001-L skin and riveted the forward hole in the stiffeners.  Riveted the shear clips.  Used fishing line to hang the skin from the garage door opener – worked great!

Clecoed the trailing edge together with the double sided, 3M tape:

Trailing edge ready for riveting:

01 MAY 14: Page 7-10 steps 1-5: 2.5 hours

Clecoed the R-1002 spar to the R-1010 shear clips then riveted them together.  Riveted the R-1004 bottom rib, R-1005 horn, and the R-1007 striker plates to the R-1002 spar:

Back side:

Riveted the R-1001 skins to the spar flanges.  Only had time for one flange tonight:

03 MAY 14: Page 7-10 steps 5-7 page 7-11 steps 1-2: 7 hours

Continued riveting the R-1001 skin to the second spar flange and ran into a hole that I missed dimpling!  No way to get much of anything in there with everything pretty much riveted together.  I had to get a little creative with the longeron yolk and just holding the bottom dimple die – worked like a champ:

Got the skins all riveted to the spar:

Skin side:

Began to rivet the trailing edge.  I’ve been thinking (and worrying) about this for quite a while.  I decided to use the method I read about using a steel bar to act like a backriveting plate – drilled holes in it to cleco the trailing edge down:

The first set backriveted, the second set waiting to rivet:

Can’t cleco with rivets in every hole, so clamp trailing edge to the plate:

Hard to get a good pic, but I got a nice, straight trailing edge:

04 MAY 14: Page 7-11 steps 2-4, page 7-12 steps 1-4: 4 hours

Rolled the leading edge of the rudder.  Prepped to prime the small section of the leading edge before riveting:

Primed:

Finished leading edge:

Formed the skin around the counterbalance weight:

 

Secured the counterbalance weight by installing hardware:

05 MAY 14: Page 7-12 step 5: 1 hour

Riveted the remaining twelve matching holes in the skins, top rib, and counterbalance rib.  Rudder complete!

07 MAY 14: Page 9-15 step 7: 30 mins

Riveted the two WD-415 trim cable attachment brackets to their corresponding E-616 cover plates – no pics

08 MAY 14: Page 9-14 steps 8-10: 2.25 hours

Prosealed the trailing edge ribs to the elevators.  Prosealed the trailing edge wedges to the elevators and clecoed the trailing edges.  Weighted the control surfaces and will let them cure for a few days:

09 MAY 14: Page 10-2 step 1: 1 hour

Made the F-1012E tie down bar and tapped to 3/8 x 16 x 1 ¼.  First time I ever tapped, but it turned out well.  I used plenty of cutting fluid and only turned about 1.5 turns before I removed and cleaned the tap: