12 JUL 15: Page 29-7 steps 2-3, page 29-8 steps 1-4, 29-12 step 2,
29-19 steps 1-2: 4.25 hours
Clecoed the F-1015C-L/R mid cabin decks to the
F-1015B-L/R foot well rib intercostals and F-1005C-L/R bulkhead side
channels. Clecoed the F-1013-L/R forward
fuse longerons to the mid cabin deck.
Final-drilled #40 the holes common between the parts:
14/16 JUL 15: Deburred side skins: 2.5 hours
Deburred F-1070-L/R side skins – no pics.
17 JUL 15: Deburred side skins, page 29-19 steps 3-5: 4 hours
Deburred edges of vent assemblies, final-drilled #40
the holes common between the vent doublers and mid side skins, machine countersunk
the holes in the F-1093 vent doors and F-1070-L/R mid side skins – no pics.
18 JUL 15: Page 29-10 steps 1-2: 3.25 hours
Bent the upper and lower fuse channels. Checked for alignment. The upper right firewall bracket was the
worst:
I had read that the base of the bracket can get
warped when welded and cause the mis-alignment, so I drilled the bracket
off. Unfortunately, the base was
flat. This was just before leaving for
Oshkosh, so I shot an email to Van’s showing them my issue. I wasn’t expecting a response, but Scott
replied early during the week of Oshkosh.
He explained that edge distance wasn’t critical – bracket is steel – and
that I could use clamps to work the flanges into place.
27 JUL 15: Page 29-4 step 4, page 29-5 steps 1-5: 2.75 hours
Marked the F-1070-L/R skins for the roll lines and
rolled the skins. Skins clamped ready to
roll:
28 JUL 15: Page 29-11 steps 1-5 (R), page 29-9 steps 1-2: 3.25
hours
Rolled the F-1069-R side skin. Clecoed the F-1070-L/R mid side skins to the
under structure. Final-drilled #40 and
#30 all holes common to the skins and structure. A bunch of holes!
29 JUL 15: Page 29-9 steps 2-5: 6.75 hours
Finished final-drilling both F-1070 side skins and
1046/1013 longerons. The edge distance
on the 1046 longerons when match-drilled to the F-1005E gussets is very
sketchy. In order to get sufficient edge
distance the longeron had to be moved slightly inboard which means the side
skin is not flush. I made some shims for
both side to make the skin flush.
Hopefully this will not cause a mark in the skin when riveting the
structure – we’ll see! A bunch of holes
to drill:
30 JUL 15: Page 29-11 steps 1-5, 29-12 3-5, 29-13 1-10, 29-14
1-6: 9 hours
Don’t have the energy to write out all the steps ;)
Finished bending the fuse skins and began to match-drilled all of the fuse
sub-structure and skins – including the longeron to firewall bracket
junctions. This is a fairly slow process
because each flange had to be clamped in both the X and Y axis to ensure
sufficient edge distance of the holes once they are drilled through the
firewall bracket flange:
31 JUL 15: Page 29-13 steps 1-10, 29-14 steps 1-7: 7.25 hours
Finished drilling the fuse structure and skins. I’ve read a lot about section 29 being a PIA,
and I will say I agree! It isn’t that
anything is super difficult (fairly), but it is a LONG and tedious section –
bending the longerons, drilling all the steel firewall brackets, etc. For those of you flying your beautiful -10s
that have long-forgotten the joys of the build, let me refresh your memory. Nothing motivates like covering your face in
hot steel shavings!
Oh by the way – even though the plans specifically
mention not doing this (that means I WILL do it), and in the pic above the tab
is on the proper side of the side channel web – at one point when R&Ring
the lower side channel to measure hole spacing, I place the aft tab on the
wrong side of the channel web – opposite as shown in the pic. What this means is that the channel was moved
inboard about 1/8-1/4 inch. This matters
because the last step I completed was drilling the floor panel holes into the
top flange of the channel. With the
channel slightly too far inboard, this meant that the holes were slightly too
far outboard. Even though I prefer this
placement (the last hole has sketchy edge distance – although it is only
connecting one floor panel pulled rivet), the holes will not line up with the
channel installed correctly and the structure clecoed together. $15 for a new channel on order with Van’s…. The photo below shows the mis-drilled hole
with the sharpie marking where the hole should have been. This error is especially dumb since I marked
all the holes before drilling. I did
this a lot in this section because of all the critical holes that are being
drilled. When my original marking didn’t
line up, I just assumed that the structure pulled together more closely this
time – never really investigated why it had done so… After hours and hours working in the 95
degree / 95% humidity, the brain just doesn’t fire on all cylinders…
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